The Green Green Grass of Aso

Dawn was barely breaking when we woke up under the protection of the lone electric light post that served as our bedroom chandelier for that night. As has become characteristic of our mornings since the great kyushu trip began, we started the day off with a mad dash to roll up the tent, erase all evidence of our presence and look for the nearest restroom where we can freshen up and greet the new day with a semi-presentable face.

That refuge came in the form of the ferry terminal restroom. We washed our faces, brushed our teeth and got out just as the sun has broken through the evening clouds. We bought our ferry tickets and in minutes we were in the ferry, waving our good byes at the majestic silhouette of Mt. Sakurajima in the distance. After about 15 minutes, we arrived in Kagoshima port and we decided to set our plans for that day in motion.

We jumped on a train bound for the green, green grass of the mountains of Aso. Unbeknownst to me at that point, Mount Aso is actually the largest active volcano in Japan and is one of the largest in the world. It has a caldera with a circumference of around 120 kms give or take.

We arrived in Aso Ekimae station and from there, we took a bus going to Asosan Nishi Eki. I had my nose pressed against the window the whole way as I watched the landscape outside change into one of bright, endless green. It was as if we were devoured by a green monster, the inside of which was made of swaying stalks of brilliant green dancing in the invisible wind. It's either that or we were in New Zealand.

From The Silken Backpack

A view of Mt. Nakadake from Kusasenri, bugs and mushrooms in Aso

We walked out towards Kusa Senri (One thousand grass), a vast expanse of green grassy plains with 2 small pools of water side by side, divided by an elevated piece of land. Here, more than a couple of creamy suede-colored cows lazed around. In the distance we could see the smoking peak of Mt. Aso.

The smoking volcano is the crater of Mt. Nakadake, one of the five mountains that comprise the central cone group of Aso. This includes Mt. Neko, Mt. Eboshi, Mt. Kishima and the tallest one, standing at 1,592 m above sea level, Mt. Taka.

From The Silken Backpack

The Kyushu Backpackers, scenes from Aso

We didn't do much here except walk around. We literally walked like pilgrims, or even more. We walked around Kusasenri, then we walked out to the road, walked further until we took a narrow pathway that went up the mountains. We climbed high enough until we got a beautiful view of the caldera. We could see Kusa senri and marveled at how it looked like a face from way up, with the two pools as eyes and the elevated land as the nose.

From The Silken Backpack

Climbing up the mountains of Mt. Aso

From this point, we also saw the hill called Komezuka, named because of its uncanny resemblance to a cup of rice. The view from here was magnificent, swaying green grass as far as the eyes could see. It was incredibly relaxing to stay there on that cloudy day and feel the wind on our face, in my opinion, it was the closest thing to freedom translated to an emotion that I have ever felt in my life. We had a clear view of the smoke-spewing Mt. Nakadake and we decided to head towards it.

From The Silken Backpack

Ninon climbing up, the face-like layout of Kusasenri and Komezuka hill

We walked down the mountain and walked along the side of the main road on the way to Mt Nakadake, stopping every now and then since the distance was farther than we thought. We kept on walking until the scenery changed from the savannah-looking emerald green to the black-streaked, other-worldly landscape of the sulphuric peak of Mt. Nakadake.

From The Silken Backpack

The changing scenery as we came closer to Mt. Nakadake

There was a path winding it's way around the huge crater and several viewing points. We stopped by occassionally to take pictures. There were signs that said the sulphur in the smoke may be dangerous and if the volcano spews out too much then all visitors must vacate the area immediately. It was really exciting. We saw the bottom of the crater where the smoke was coming from and of course, pictures were duly taken.

From The Silken Backpack

The space rocks in Mt. Nakadake, the smoking crater, the pathway around the crater

After practically walking the entire length of the path, we started our way back to the train station. We walked such a long distance that we were completely tired out. Finally we reached the quaint train station of Aso that looked like it came straight out of a european countryside just in time to see the black steam locomotive, Aso Boy train pull out. We waited for our next train and got on, surprised to find that even though the sky was cloudy, we were incredibly sunburned.

From The Silken Backpack

The charming Aso station, Lazy cows, the smoking volcano, shrines by the road side

We slept through most of the train trip going to Kumamoto port. It was from here that we were gonna get on the ferry headed towards Shimabara Port in Nagasaki for yet another day in the Kyushu adventure.